First Parker Repro (w/ Questions)

[edgarspencer]

If it was an upgrade (I am probably going with Brian's post, that it is not) by DelGrego and Runge, it will likely have Runge's signature hidden in a border. The GI pics aren't clear enough to show it though.
Steve, post a picture of the bottom of the receiver, focusing on the forward two screws.

edit: Blowing up the GI picture of the trigger plate does not show Runge's signature.

[Dean Romig]

Runge did not identify lower grade upgrades with his signature Edgar. He only did that on the high grade upgrades.





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[Bill Murphy]

Dean missed the PS stamp when he proclaimed that the gun was a D grade. Further, we haven't seen any good pictures of the rib or the extension. Neat gun.

[Dean Romig]

Yes I did Bill - Thanks for pointing that out… PS = Parker Special Steel soecifically for the Grade-2 guns.





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[J. A. EARLY]

I have a few newb questions. How does that stock come off, by removing the (2) tang and trigger guard screws? With no through bolt? I'm guessing not, but are the extractor changeable to ejectors? Can the auto safety be easily disabled?

If I decided to remove the checkered butt and install a pad, what would be considered correct? I like a black Pachmayr SC pad but maybe some red/orange/brown pad would be a better choice. I'm not sold on leather covered pads, just personal preference.

Lastly, how do SK IN and SK OUT translate as far as choke constriction? It seems like it might mean different thing from different manufacturers? I've shot 50 skeet and 50 SC targets and it seemed break 'em just fine.

Steve,

To answer some of your questions which I don't think have been answered:

1. No through bolt. Trigger guard off. Floor plate has to come off. Hammers and springs removed. Two screws through stock. Instructions on this site. Why do it?
2. You would buy another gun before converting one to ejector.
3. Auto safety can be done away with, but stock has to be removed and barrel for tang screw removed from wood to remove rod. Not worth it unless you have correct screwdrivers and knowledge to do it.
4. Please, Please do not cut that checkered butt under any circumstances.
5. .615 is a 20 gauge bore. Have someone measure the bore/constriction. right barrel is skeet out (longer shot), should be tighter than the left for skeet in (closer shot). You may find both close to the same, but far less than .010 (ten thousandths) constriction in both. Skeet in may be close to cylinder, skeet out more choke. Only way to know is to measure them. Thus for hunting say quail from underfoot with this gun you would shoot left first, then right.

You could never "create" this gun for what you paid for it. Vent rib, GH Grade 2, reblued barrels and parts, case hardening, checkered new wood, checkered butt, and a new beaver tail forearm. Not counting opening chokes, etc. I would love to own and hunt with this gun. The only thing you really need to do is to measure the barrel thickness to make sure someone did not hone/polish the barrels and make them too thin.

[Rick Roemer]

My opinion is you have a very nice first Parker. I don’t think you have over paid. I love the checkered butt, beavertail, and chokes. Determining collectibility and originality is a long acquired skill. This comes from lots of looking, lots of reading, and lots of talking to senior members. From your post it seems it checks a lot of boxes for your personal taste. I like this gun as an excellent shooter! Join our club and get more involved! There’s not a better place to be.

[10 bore]

This gun is better than a repro and a great price for what you have.

[David C Porter]

I agree with Brian that it's been heavily modified & is a shooter. So, if you need longer lenght of pull or comfort from recoil go ahead and add a period pad. You're not going to hurt the value since it's already been modified and has lost it's collectors value. Like going to Pep Boys & adding chrome rims & flame striping to a Mercedes. You don't get your money back & desirability on resale goes down. Enjoy it as a shooter.